Los Gigantes!

Haven't written in a while but I have some accounts to tell.



About 2 weeks ago Anna, Taylor, Brian and I signed up for a volunteer reforestation project in Los Gigantes which is a group of beautiful rock formations in the Sierras of Cordoba, pretty close to Condor National Park. I finally saw my first Condor! Brady I thank you for those binoculars! What a beautiful bird.
When we arrived at the bus stop with backpacks and curious excitement we were met by this sweet highschooler who was to lead us to the refuge. After backpacking up for 3 beautiful hours, sighting the condor and admiring the dramatic landscape of lush grasses, trickling streams and jutting rock formations, we finally arrived at the refuge. An area was fenced off for the project which has been researching and experimenting with reforestation techniques for about 15 years. The deforestation was from slash and burn practices to make space for cattle. Our "guide" told us this place used to be completely forest. Now there was hardly a tree in sight. In January the group had planted tabaquillo trees that are native to the area (the branches of one are peaking over the sign in the photo).


The refuge was nestled quietly between jutting masses of granite.


We arrived pretty exhausted and out of breath from the 3 hour incline and change of elevation, but ready to work nonetheless. And work we did! Basically what the project was doing was experimenting methods of reforestation to present the best option to the province to hopefully receive funds to continue throughout the area. That afternoon we transplanted this bushy grass called Poa to the sides of hills that had eroded, or were in danger of erosion, to prevent further damage. We worked until the sun went down and the fog came in and we could no longer see. I have noticed that though Argentinians may be relaxed and tranquil in their way of life, when they go to work they WORK. By the end we were EXHAUSTED but in the best way possible. The other volunteers were incredibly friendly and very interesting. We had a couple researchers, an ecology professor and then some just genuinely interested in volunteering for something they believe in. Our day ended with an AMAZING asado, a card game and acoustic guitar until the wee hours of the morning when we crawled into bed and slept like babies.
The next day we went to work mid-morning and after a shared lunch of pasta we were all set to trek out in time to catch our bus back home. However, a bit inconveniently, a storm came in, growled and rolled and hailed, and left almost as quickly as it came. It left us with a glimmering but slightly slippery hike back. What a great way to spend a weekend. I'm so glad I did this not only because it was a beautiful spot and great people, but because while I''m here living in Argentina I SHOULD give back and contribute to preserving such diverse and beautiful land.

"We just scarfed at 5am in a gas station in Argentina"

"but somehow that sentence only sounds cool with those last two words" said Sarah as we spooned in my twin bed after a night of drinking games with my host brothers, sisters and friends, intense dancing in a boliche, and eating salami sandwiches at a 24 gas station across the street from my house. I have stayed out until at least 5am every night since Wednesday and I am going out again tonight! I'm surprised I am awake right now, but I guess I've just been sleeping in every day as well. Wednesday night we celebrated St. Patty's day in a boliche (because practically the only irish pub in Cordoba was CLOSED on st. patty's day!?!? whhaatt?). Thursday Anna, Sarah and I went to a really cool cultural house to see a brazilian band play (whose music was great!!) and afterwards we ended up talking to the band and going back to their hostel with them. There, by complete coincidence we saw another girl from our program with her boyfriend who was also staying at the hostel! We had a jam sesh in the hostel, drank beer and smoked on the roof, and then I played pool with some guys from Buenos Aires. That was probably my most favorite night here so far. Friday night (last night) Pia (my host sister) organized an outing to a boliche in a different barrio called . We played drinking games in el Quincho (asado room) to "hacer la previa" or "pre-game." The boliche was HUGE with an outdoor patio which was amazing to have because usually you're dying of heat in the boliches downtown. Tonight I'm seeing the brazilian band play again in a club I really like.

This week was also my first week of classes. My PECLA classes have started (these classes are designed for foreign students so for instance their is a girl from amsterdam, a girl from canada and a guy from Japan in my spanish class...pretty cool) but my university classes have not started yet (those which I will take with other Argentinians) because every department starts at a different time. I am not completely certain what classes I'll be taking but I am pretty sure I will take a painting class and an art history class. I also signed up for yoga classes at the university which i regret a little because I don't really like the class after my first one thursday night. I miss warrior yoga in santa cruz! but I'm signed up and paid so I might as well...plus there is a very attractive man in the class which could make it worth while...crossing my fingers he doesnt have a girlfriend. I swear EVERY guapo has a freakin girlfriend! Its like the thing to do here. Pair off. But whatever I'm over it I like being single.

I actually don't have much to say right now. Actually, I have a lot to say but I really don't feel like being on my computer. But I WILL just say that I fall more and more in love with this place each day. Things about the culture that may have bothered me at first no longer do and now I look past these and I find beauty in this place that one can only find when they are immersed. I will say more later, now I'm off to a feria to look for a mate cup! Ciao!

21st Birthday in Buenos Aires

How many people can say that?

I haven't posted anything in a while because I had exams all last
week....all testing my spanish level which I do not feel very confident in....so basically I was very relieved when those were done. All I want is to be able to take the University classes I want to take! I have yet to find out my results. Anyways, after a week of exams my program had organized a trip to Buenos Aires! It really does live up to its nickname of the Paris of South America. The old architecture, wide streets, plazas and numerous museums reminded me of the city in France. I had a lot of fun but I would have rather gone with a couple friends and spent more time doing exactly what we wanted to do. Instead it was organized like a tour with a time limit for each place we visited. We did have some free time to do what we liked which was nice but for only 3 days we only scratched the surface of this massive city. But I don't want to complain so for now I'll talk about what I liked about this trip.

We took a bus from Cordoba overnight (the trip is 10 hours!) on Thursday so we arrived in Buenos Aires Friday morning. Then we took a "city tour" complete with a tour bus and guide (BARF I was so embarrassed!) but I guess it was a good way to see the giant city efficiently. We hit the highlights with speed, ate lunch and then were given free time which most of us (including myself) spent the majority of it catching up on sleep from the semi-restless night on the bus. That night I went out around town with my friends for some shopping and then to a boliche that turned out to be pretty risque with a raunchy dance contest late in the night/early morning. But it was entertaining to say the least! I had a lot of fun dancing with my friends though. There was one point in the night were we went upstairs to an empty room and starting to dance like no one was watching (well I guess that was the truth at first) and as people started to filter in it was like they didn't know how to react to a bunch of crazy girls busting their unique moves all over the place. For a while we were dancing in the center of the room and people were just standing around us watching. Some guy did venture in for a moment (probably to try and dance with one of us) but I think we scared him off again. Then later in the night an Indian man who lived in Hong Kong (who I met in Argentina...) in his late 30's possibly 40's asked me to teach him to dance. I was kinda creeped out so I just told him I didn't know how.

Saturday we went to the museum of Evita (which honestly I was kind of bored at...I don't really understand why she was so famous...) and then to a barrio called La Boca. Even though it was very touristy I did like it. All the buildings were painted with bright colors and there were many unique boutiques, a feria (crafts market) and an art museum. Rebekah, Lucina and I stayed longer than the "tour schedule" told us to because we wanted to hang out here more and take it in. It was nice to escape that regimen for a bit. That night we all went to a tango show with a delicious dinner of seafood salad, steak and potatoes, and coconut flan. yum. The show itself was a bit cheesy but the dancing was incredible! The footwork in tango is amazing and the movement is so fluid and flawless. It made me want to learn! After the show, well, it was midnight and therefore my birthday so my friends and I went out to a different boliche where I got in for free! and my friends gave me a constant flow of Fernet (the liquor of choice here...which is mixed with coca cola....very delicious) which didn't feel too great the next morning but the night was great! I danced it away complete with a party hat with winnie the pooh on it (I still don't really know where it came from but it is still with me now in my room in Cordoba).

Our last day, Sunday, was spent at a huge feria in the San Telmo district where I spent way too much money but walked away with some good finds and things I actually did need. Well, some of them. After a hot afternoon walking up and down the crowded streets of the feria we went to the Museum de Bellas Artes. I did not have enough time here at all and if I return to Buenos Aires (which I really want to) I'm going here first! There is an Argentine artist Antonio Berni which I am falling in love with! He is a 20th century painter and muralist. His work usually portrays images of the poor and some of his work consists of collages made from trash and spare parts he would find in these neighborhoods. Here are some of his paintings: The top one ("Juanito Laguna aprende a leer") I saw in the museum. In all of these paintings the character Juanito Laguna is portrayed. Berni created this archetype to represent all the disadvantaged children that he had met in the barrios. There are many paintings of Juanito in different situations and all of them say so much. I really want to see more of Berni's work in person.

















When I got back to Cordoba Sunday night my host sisters Pia and Sole had made me not one but TWO birthday cakes! One chocolate mousse and one lemon pie. Patricia, my host mom, told me I could invite my friends over. I ordered pizza and we ate and swam in the pool. Such a fun birthday I could not have asked for more!

Mina Clavera

So I took a mini vacay this weekend with my friend Sarah from CC-CS and two German girls (Anna and Sojo) and a guy from Belgium (Pierre) whom we met at the tango class last Thursday. I actually did not know where we were going until I was at the bus terminal meeting up with them (Sarah couldn't remember the name of the village). Turns out it was Mina Clavera which is a town I passed through on my way to and from the farm in Quebrada de los Pozos! It was the same route and everything. What a coincidence. I had a great time getting to know them, but I have to say it wasn't the best way to practice my spanish considering we spoke in english the entire time (they were learning spanish in Cordoba but had only taken 2 weeks of classes). I had a test on Monday too...
But it was fun nonetheless. We found out quickly though that this town is BUMPING in the summer time and there were a TON of tourists on the main pedestrian street. The owner of the hostel we stayed at told us after the summer passes it gets pretty quiet there. I think that would be nice. The town is right along a river and so when we got there we hiked along these rocks beside the river for a while and went swimming more upstream from the town. The sport of choice at the river (especially for the macho Argentine men) was jumping off the rocks and cliffs into the river. We seriously thought we were going to witness death when this one especially confident man jumped from the HIGHEST cliff! Probably at least 200 feet! But I could be totally off I'm never good at guessing numbers.
We spent the whole day at the river and returned to town for helado and a makeshift dinner of bread, cheese, olives and wine (YUM)which we ate at the hostel while talking with other travelers and the owner. I have noticed (after talking about environmental issues with the owner) that the people in the countryside seem to be a bit more aware of environmental impacts than the people I have met in the city. I guess this could be presumed. Or maybe its just a coincidence that I have only visited hippie towns thus far.
After dinner we all had an in depth conversation about culture and language which I love talking about and getting different perspectives from different countries. Then we mustered up all the energy we had left and went out to a bar with live Brazilian music. I loved the music but we were not the liveliest bunch after our day of hiking so we didn't stay long. The next day we bussed it back to Cordoba while Sarah and I studied for our exam the next day.
So there we have it: my first weekend trip. I think next time I would like to do some camping in one of the national parks nearby. I mean I already have my tent with me and apparently you can just set up your tent anywhere you want and it doesn't cost anything. This worries me a bit with preserving the park but I have to say it would be nice to camp for free.

La Vida Nueva

It is amazing how frequently my mood and emotions change here. I feel menopausal sometimes. There are times I feel so frustrated with my comprehension of the language that I want to just curl up and dissappear. But then there are the other times when my confidence is rekindled by a successful conversation with a native speaker. I am learning that no emotion I feel is permanent. However, I do feel that after one month in this country my spanish has improved, even at my slow pace. I also find myself enjoying the city life more and more. It was a difficult adjustment for me but I love learning the character of this place. Every morning I take the bus to my spanish class and whereas before my eyes were hazed by the pollution, humidity and mass of people I now am beginning to see the beauty and culture of this city wink at me from every corner. From the colonial architecture that hints of a historical past to the tranquil life people lead as they pass around una copa de mate.

Last night I attended a tango class with Pia (my sister) and some friends from my program. SO FUN! I want to go every week! The class was very basic, but it left me wanting more! Especially afterwards when we were able to watch the pros dance around the floor. Tango is so beautiful and sensual I love it. The bar we were at had two floors: the top was for the classes and the dance floor where the locals show off their moves. The first floor was the resto bar with live music! Last night a pianist played. We also met two German girls and a guy from Belgian who are also studying espanol in the city. I might take a mini trip with them this weekend to a pueblo outside of Cordoba with my friend Sarah from CC-CS (my program).

ALSO another food I tried last night that mi madre prepared: lengua de cerdo...literally pig's tongue. SO GOOD! Served with a tomato sauce and potatoes. It has a rich flavor and a very smooth texture. delicious. That reminds me of another food that I am in love with is chorizo de sangre...sausage made from blood. Such an amazing flavor. I LOVE trying new food!

Today we (my program) went on an excursion to visit 2 Jesuit estancias (basically a farm that was connected with the Jesuit church) around Cordoba city. Earlier this week we visited the Manzana de Jesuitica (Jesuit block) within the city where the old university is located. The trip to the estancias was very nice and the artifacts in the rooms were so interesting to me, but we sped through it too fast! I wanted to look around more! I don't know why we were so rushed. I would like to visit more of these estancias some other weekend. They are so interesting to me. Afterwards we ate at a very good restaurant and right now I am stuffed with carne! Time for a ciesta....





One of the estancias (photos were not allowed at the second one we visited)...and I didn't really understand the palm trees....

Hopefully just some extra protein?

Today I bought a bag of nuts from a kiosk and they were just in a clear plastic bag, no brand name or commercially sealed packaging. I was just now eating them...not really examining them too closely, when I looked down at the bag and noticed something moving amongst the pieces. There was probably about 5 or 6 LARVA squirming about having a jolly ol' time. I immediately spit out what I was chewing and I'm considering force vomiting. I don't really know if I should be worried I don't know anything about this kind of stuff....could this turn into a parasitic problem in my stomach if I consumed some of these little creatures? I am feeling a bit nauseous but I think its just in my head....
If anyone has any idea please tell me!

This brings me to the topic of food here. I have to say I think I am getting a bit of an Argentine belly. My diet is probably the hardest thing I have had to adjust to here. That and the environmental issues (but I'll save that for another blog). Argentinians eat so much BREAD! it is incredible! They seem to love their bread, mayonaise, salt and oil. And of course not everybody is the same I have just been noticing these 4 condiments a lot. Because I am living with a family my diet is obviously very controlled by what they eat and this is a bit difficult for me because I am so used to cooking my own food with tons of vegetables and having an abundant fruit supply. Right now I am buying my own fruit to snack on but in terms of cooking vegetables, I really can't because I have to maintain a level of respect as well. But I do not want to complain either because mi padre, Juan, is an excellent cook and we have had some delicious meals here. Its just that vegetables are a rarity. And this goes without mentioning the fact that it is impossible to find anything organic. I do not think I've even seen the word anywhere, besides when I was living on the farm. Out in the countryside, I least where I was and who I was meeting, I felt people were a lot more aware. But in the city many people have not even heard of the concept. Mi madre asked me what the difference was between organic and not organic. AND the other day I found out they still use Agent Orange here!

I feel like I am complaining too much. Let me talk about the good food I've had as well. In my house there is a room called La Quita and there is a huge table (because there is always at LEAST 9 people eating if we do not have company) and an open flame in-the-wall fire pit where Juan has concocted some DELICIOUS dishes. Asado here is a term used to describe what we call a BBQ. But asado is so much better than our version. The meat is amaaazing, rich with flavor and juices. Usually beef and chorizo (sausages...delicious sausages) are served with various side dishes like salad, potatoes, bread (of course), and even grilled vegetables sometimes! Another popular dish here is called a tarta and is very similar to quiesh (spelling?). There is a large Italian influence here (like my family) and so the pizza and helado are pretty darn tasty as well. The other night Juan made a dish that I think is my favorite so far... I think it is called Pollo el Dicho and it its very similar to the Spanish paella but it just has chicken in it and a different flavor. Similar in that it is a rice stew of sorts. Juan cooked it slowly over the open flame...AMAZING.

I've also noticed that Argentinians never eat on the go and I haven't really seen many people "snacking". When they eat they sit down and eat. It is a meal and only that. They aren't frantically chugging a latte and scarfing a bagel as they scramble on the bus to get to work. That is something very different compared to the US and it is something I can definitely learn from. I have a major snacking problem and when I am home in CA I feel like I am always eating my breakfast as I walk out the door. If you eat on the go here you definitely get some stares. Maybe my incident with the nuts today was a lesson in disguise....

Wwoof!

The farm, El Aguaribay (named after a tree which was sacred to the Inca), was a peculiar experience. The farm itself was only 2 years old and the soil was very dry. Hardly anything was growing and what was was struggling. I can understand this though, the climate is HOT and the soil is not very rich. However, the layout of a farm is another thing. It was pretty comical when Emelio, the manager, told me to "find" the places he had planted zapallos (squash) and water them and place mulching on top. It was like someone was chasing him on his tractor when he had tilled the soil. The rows swirved in and around trees, crossed paths and then mysteriously disappeared into the abyss....then the "holes" where he had planted the zapallos were of no order whatsoever. It was a treasure hunt for me! I couldn't help but laugh to myself. At first I was the only WWOOFER. There was a girl from Buenos Aires but she was not working...I never really understood that situation....but then, luckily, a girl from France (Virginia) arrived so I had a buddy to giggle with at the absurdity of some of the happenings in this peculiar place.


So there was the farm, and as I got to know Emelio better I started to see a mirroring between him and the farm. Scattered. There would be moments were Emelio was relatively friendly like when he brought me a peach while i was feeling like death the first weekend (oh yeah, I got really sick the first few days and spent all my time in a hammock feeling sorry for myself). But then there would be other times were you could tell he just LOVED to laugh at people, in particular, the american (me). For instance one night when I was still sick Eugenia (the girl from Buenos Aires) brought home empanadas for dinner and as I was about to eat one Emelio shouted "NOT FOR YOU!" and then he laughed and said "ha! how do you feel now?" And there would be other times where you would ask him a question and only get a grumble in return. Virginia and I talked about him alot and wondered why he was this way. He DOES live alone and we both think there is a story under it all. We found out both of his parents had died....So I have to be sensitive to that. But he was pretty difficult to be around.
The countryside was beautiful though! I was constantly amazed by the flora and vast amount of insects and birds! During the day the birds whistled a pleasant tune to work to and at night the orchestra of insects was like something electric, experimental. I have never before heard sounds like those. There were firefly-like insects that cast a fluorescent green as they zipped around the farm at night! And the blanket of stars was breathtaking. I was also happily surrounded by 3 dogs, a cat, 2 kittens, and 3 horses. During the day, the clouds never ceased to amaze me. They were constantly changing, casting dramatic shadows across the sierras. Sometimes they would lightly dance with the wind throughout the day and other times they rolled heavy over the hills filled with rain to come. There were probably 3 or 4 lightening storms during the 2 weeks I was there. I felt inspired by the clouds. One hot night while I tossed and turned in my tent, thinking about where I was and how I felt, I wrote this little passage:


Here I am planted in Argentine soil
Now my roots can only grow deeper
While my body grows taller, wiser
Watered by experience and persons
I will grow
To produce sweet fruit to share
An apple, a peach, a lemon
I will bear fruits of many shapes, flavors, colors, textures
And one day when my outstretched branches cannot hold anymore
I will shake myself free
The wind will carry me up into the clouds
Where I can scatter my seeds
And, like a cloud
I will stay true to my complexion
While I allow the wind, seasons and light to paint me

(Soon I would like to rewrite it in spanish)

I know, a little cheesy, but it is good for me to read over in my weaker moments