So I took a mini vacay this weekend with my friend Sarah from CC-CS and two German girls (Anna and Sojo) and a guy from Belgium (Pierre) whom we met at the tango class last Thursday. I actually did not know where we were going until I was at the bus terminal meeting up with them (Sarah couldn't remember the name of the village). Turns out it was Mina Clavera which is a town I passed through on my way to and from the farm in Quebrada de los Pozos! It was the same route and everything. What a coincidence. I had a great time getting to know them, but I have to say it wasn't the best way to practice my spanish considering we spoke in english the entire time (they were learning spanish in Cordoba but had only taken 2 weeks of classes). I had a test on Monday too...
But it was fun nonetheless. We found out quickly though that this town is BUMPING in the summer time and there were a TON of tourists on the main pedestrian street. The owner of the hostel we stayed at told us after the summer passes it gets pretty quiet there. I think that would be nice. The town is right along a river and so when we got there we hiked along these rocks beside the river for a while and went swimming more upstream from the town. The sport of choice at the river (especially for the macho Argentine men) was jumping off the rocks and cliffs into the river. We seriously thought we were going to witness death when this one especially confident man jumped from the HIGHEST cliff! Probably at least 200 feet! But I could be totally off I'm never good at guessing numbers.
We spent the whole day at the river and returned to town for helado and a makeshift dinner of bread, cheese, olives and wine (YUM)which we ate at the hostel while talking with other travelers and the owner. I have noticed (after talking about environmental issues with the owner) that the people in the countryside seem to be a bit more aware of environmental impacts than the people I have met in the city. I guess this could be presumed. Or maybe its just a coincidence that I have only visited hippie towns thus far.
After dinner we all had an in depth conversation about culture and language which I love talking about and getting different perspectives from different countries. Then we mustered up all the energy we had left and went out to a bar with live Brazilian music. I loved the music but we were not the liveliest bunch after our day of hiking so we didn't stay long. The next day we bussed it back to Cordoba while Sarah and I studied for our exam the next day.
So there we have it: my first weekend trip. I think next time I would like to do some camping in one of the national parks nearby. I mean I already have my tent with me and apparently you can just set up your tent anywhere you want and it doesn't cost anything. This worries me a bit with preserving the park but I have to say it would be nice to camp for free.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Friday, February 19, 2010
La Vida Nueva
It is amazing how frequently my mood and emotions change here. I feel menopausal sometimes. There are times I feel so frustrated with my comprehension of the language that I want to just curl up and dissappear. But then there are the other times when my confidence is rekindled by a successful conversation with a native speaker. I am learning that no emotion I feel is permanent. However, I do feel that after one month in this country my spanish has improved, even at my slow pace. I also find myself enjoying the city life more and more. It was a difficult adjustment for me but I love learning the character of this place. Every morning I take the bus to my spanish class and whereas before my eyes were hazed by the pollution, humidity and mass of people I now am beginning to see the beauty and culture of this city wink at me from every corner. From the colonial architecture that hints of a historical past to the tranquil life people lead as they pass around una copa de mate.
Last night I attended a tango class with Pia (my sister) and some friends from my program. SO FUN! I want to go every week! The class was very basic, but it left me wanting more! Especially afterwards when we were able to watch the pros dance around the floor. Tango is so beautiful and sensual I love it. The bar we were at had two floors: the top was for the classes and the dance floor where the locals show off their moves. The first floor was the resto bar with live music! Last night a pianist played. We also met two German girls and a guy from Belgian who are also studying espanol in the city. I might take a mini trip with them this weekend to a pueblo outside of Cordoba with my friend Sarah from CC-CS (my program).
ALSO another food I tried last night that mi madre prepared: lengua de cerdo...literally pig's tongue. SO GOOD! Served with a tomato sauce and potatoes. It has a rich flavor and a very smooth texture. delicious. That reminds me of another food that I am in love with is chorizo de sangre...sausage made from blood. Such an amazing flavor. I LOVE trying new food!
Today we (my program) went on an excursion to visit 2 Jesuit estancias (basically a farm that was connected with the Jesuit church) around Cordoba city. Earlier this week we visited the Manzana de Jesuitica (Jesuit block) within the city where the old university is located. The trip to the estancias was very nice and the artifacts in the rooms were so interesting to me, but we sped through it too fast! I wanted to look around more! I don't know why we were so rushed. I would like to visit more of these estancias some other weekend. They are so interesting to me. Afterwards we ate at a very good restaurant and right now I am stuffed with carne! Time for a ciesta....
One of the estancias (photos were not allowed at the second one we visited)...and I didn't really understand the palm trees....
Last night I attended a tango class with Pia (my sister) and some friends from my program. SO FUN! I want to go every week! The class was very basic, but it left me wanting more! Especially afterwards when we were able to watch the pros dance around the floor. Tango is so beautiful and sensual I love it. The bar we were at had two floors: the top was for the classes and the dance floor where the locals show off their moves. The first floor was the resto bar with live music! Last night a pianist played. We also met two German girls and a guy from Belgian who are also studying espanol in the city. I might take a mini trip with them this weekend to a pueblo outside of Cordoba with my friend Sarah from CC-CS (my program).
ALSO another food I tried last night that mi madre prepared: lengua de cerdo...literally pig's tongue. SO GOOD! Served with a tomato sauce and potatoes. It has a rich flavor and a very smooth texture. delicious. That reminds me of another food that I am in love with is chorizo de sangre...sausage made from blood. Such an amazing flavor. I LOVE trying new food!
Today we (my program) went on an excursion to visit 2 Jesuit estancias (basically a farm that was connected with the Jesuit church) around Cordoba city. Earlier this week we visited the Manzana de Jesuitica (Jesuit block) within the city where the old university is located. The trip to the estancias was very nice and the artifacts in the rooms were so interesting to me, but we sped through it too fast! I wanted to look around more! I don't know why we were so rushed. I would like to visit more of these estancias some other weekend. They are so interesting to me. Afterwards we ate at a very good restaurant and right now I am stuffed with carne! Time for a ciesta....
One of the estancias (photos were not allowed at the second one we visited)...and I didn't really understand the palm trees....
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Hopefully just some extra protein?
Today I bought a bag of nuts from a kiosk and they were just in a clear plastic bag, no brand name or commercially sealed packaging. I was just now eating them...not really examining them too closely, when I looked down at the bag and noticed something moving amongst the pieces. There was probably about 5 or 6 LARVA squirming about having a jolly ol' time. I immediately spit out what I was chewing and I'm considering force vomiting. I don't really know if I should be worried I don't know anything about this kind of stuff....could this turn into a parasitic problem in my stomach if I consumed some of these little creatures? I am feeling a bit nauseous but I think its just in my head....
If anyone has any idea please tell me!
This brings me to the topic of food here. I have to say I think I am getting a bit of an Argentine belly. My diet is probably the hardest thing I have had to adjust to here. That and the environmental issues (but I'll save that for another blog). Argentinians eat so much BREAD! it is incredible! They seem to love their bread, mayonaise, salt and oil. And of course not everybody is the same I have just been noticing these 4 condiments a lot. Because I am living with a family my diet is obviously very controlled by what they eat and this is a bit difficult for me because I am so used to cooking my own food with tons of vegetables and having an abundant fruit supply. Right now I am buying my own fruit to snack on but in terms of cooking vegetables, I really can't because I have to maintain a level of respect as well. But I do not want to complain either because mi padre, Juan, is an excellent cook and we have had some delicious meals here. Its just that vegetables are a rarity. And this goes without mentioning the fact that it is impossible to find anything organic. I do not think I've even seen the word anywhere, besides when I was living on the farm. Out in the countryside, I least where I was and who I was meeting, I felt people were a lot more aware. But in the city many people have not even heard of the concept. Mi madre asked me what the difference was between organic and not organic. AND the other day I found out they still use Agent Orange here!
I feel like I am complaining too much. Let me talk about the good food I've had as well. In my house there is a room called La Quita and there is a huge table (because there is always at LEAST 9 people eating if we do not have company) and an open flame in-the-wall fire pit where Juan has concocted some DELICIOUS dishes. Asado here is a term used to describe what we call a BBQ. But asado is so much better than our version. The meat is amaaazing, rich with flavor and juices. Usually beef and chorizo (sausages...delicious sausages) are served with various side dishes like salad, potatoes, bread (of course), and even grilled vegetables sometimes! Another popular dish here is called a tarta and is very similar to quiesh (spelling?). There is a large Italian influence here (like my family) and so the pizza and helado are pretty darn tasty as well. The other night Juan made a dish that I think is my favorite so far... I think it is called Pollo el Dicho and it its very similar to the Spanish paella but it just has chicken in it and a different flavor. Similar in that it is a rice stew of sorts. Juan cooked it slowly over the open flame...AMAZING.
I've also noticed that Argentinians never eat on the go and I haven't really seen many people "snacking". When they eat they sit down and eat. It is a meal and only that. They aren't frantically chugging a latte and scarfing a bagel as they scramble on the bus to get to work. That is something very different compared to the US and it is something I can definitely learn from. I have a major snacking problem and when I am home in CA I feel like I am always eating my breakfast as I walk out the door. If you eat on the go here you definitely get some stares. Maybe my incident with the nuts today was a lesson in disguise....
If anyone has any idea please tell me!
This brings me to the topic of food here. I have to say I think I am getting a bit of an Argentine belly. My diet is probably the hardest thing I have had to adjust to here. That and the environmental issues (but I'll save that for another blog). Argentinians eat so much BREAD! it is incredible! They seem to love their bread, mayonaise, salt and oil. And of course not everybody is the same I have just been noticing these 4 condiments a lot. Because I am living with a family my diet is obviously very controlled by what they eat and this is a bit difficult for me because I am so used to cooking my own food with tons of vegetables and having an abundant fruit supply. Right now I am buying my own fruit to snack on but in terms of cooking vegetables, I really can't because I have to maintain a level of respect as well. But I do not want to complain either because mi padre, Juan, is an excellent cook and we have had some delicious meals here. Its just that vegetables are a rarity. And this goes without mentioning the fact that it is impossible to find anything organic. I do not think I've even seen the word anywhere, besides when I was living on the farm. Out in the countryside, I least where I was and who I was meeting, I felt people were a lot more aware. But in the city many people have not even heard of the concept. Mi madre asked me what the difference was between organic and not organic. AND the other day I found out they still use Agent Orange here!
I feel like I am complaining too much. Let me talk about the good food I've had as well. In my house there is a room called La Quita and there is a huge table (because there is always at LEAST 9 people eating if we do not have company) and an open flame in-the-wall fire pit where Juan has concocted some DELICIOUS dishes. Asado here is a term used to describe what we call a BBQ. But asado is so much better than our version. The meat is amaaazing, rich with flavor and juices. Usually beef and chorizo (sausages...delicious sausages) are served with various side dishes like salad, potatoes, bread (of course), and even grilled vegetables sometimes! Another popular dish here is called a tarta and is very similar to quiesh (spelling?). There is a large Italian influence here (like my family) and so the pizza and helado are pretty darn tasty as well. The other night Juan made a dish that I think is my favorite so far... I think it is called Pollo el Dicho and it its very similar to the Spanish paella but it just has chicken in it and a different flavor. Similar in that it is a rice stew of sorts. Juan cooked it slowly over the open flame...AMAZING.
I've also noticed that Argentinians never eat on the go and I haven't really seen many people "snacking". When they eat they sit down and eat. It is a meal and only that. They aren't frantically chugging a latte and scarfing a bagel as they scramble on the bus to get to work. That is something very different compared to the US and it is something I can definitely learn from. I have a major snacking problem and when I am home in CA I feel like I am always eating my breakfast as I walk out the door. If you eat on the go here you definitely get some stares. Maybe my incident with the nuts today was a lesson in disguise....
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Wwoof!
The farm, El Aguaribay (named after a tree which was sacred to the Inca), was a peculiar experience. The farm itself was only 2 years old and the soil was very dry. Hardly anything was growing and what was was struggling. I can understand this though, the climate is HOT and the soil is not very rich. However, the layout of a farm is another thing. It was pretty comical when Emelio, the manager, told me to "find" the places he had planted zapallos (squash) and water them and place mulching on top. It was like someone was chasing him on his tractor when he had tilled the soil. The rows swirved in and around trees, crossed paths and then mysteriously disappeared into the abyss....then the "holes" where he had planted the zapallos were of no order whatsoever. It was a treasure hunt for me! I couldn't help but laugh to myself. At first I was the only WWOOFER. There was a girl from Buenos Aires but she was not working...I never really understood that situation....but then, luckily, a girl from France (Virginia) arrived so I had a buddy to giggle with at the absurdity of some of the happenings in this peculiar place.
So there was the farm, and as I got to know Emelio better I started to see a mirroring between him and the farm. Scattered. There would be moments were Emelio was relatively friendly like when he brought me a peach while i was feeling like death the first weekend (oh yeah, I got really sick the first few days and spent all my time in a hammock feeling sorry for myself). But then there would be other times were you could tell he just LOVED to laugh at people, in particular, the american (me). For instance one night when I was still sick Eugenia (the girl from Buenos Aires) brought home empanadas for dinner and as I was about to eat one Emelio shouted "NOT FOR YOU!" and then he laughed and said "ha! how do you feel now?" And there would be other times where you would ask him a question and only get a grumble in return. Virginia and I talked about him alot and wondered why he was this way. He DOES live alone and we both think there is a story under it all. We found out both of his parents had died....So I have to be sensitive to that. But he was pretty difficult to be around.
The countryside was beautiful though! I was constantly amazed by the flora and vast amount of insects and birds! During the day the birds whistled a pleasant tune to work to and at night the orchestra of insects was like something electric, experimental. I have never before heard sounds like those. There were firefly-like insects that cast a fluorescent green as they zipped around the farm at night! And the blanket of stars was breathtaking. I was also happily surrounded by 3 dogs, a cat, 2 kittens, and 3 horses. During the day, the clouds never ceased to amaze me. They were constantly changing, casting dramatic shadows across the sierras. Sometimes they would lightly dance with the wind throughout the day and other times they rolled heavy over the hills filled with rain to come. There were probably 3 or 4 lightening storms during the 2 weeks I was there. I felt inspired by the clouds. One hot night while I tossed and turned in my tent, thinking about where I was and how I felt, I wrote this little passage:
Here I am planted in Argentine soil
Now my roots can only grow deeper
While my body grows taller, wiser
Watered by experience and persons
I will grow
To produce sweet fruit to share
An apple, a peach, a lemon
I will bear fruits of many shapes, flavors, colors, textures
And one day when my outstretched branches cannot hold anymore
I will shake myself free
The wind will carry me up into the clouds
Where I can scatter my seeds
And, like a cloud
I will stay true to my complexion
While I allow the wind, seasons and light to paint me
(Soon I would like to rewrite it in spanish)
I know, a little cheesy, but it is good for me to read over in my weaker moments
So there was the farm, and as I got to know Emelio better I started to see a mirroring between him and the farm. Scattered. There would be moments were Emelio was relatively friendly like when he brought me a peach while i was feeling like death the first weekend (oh yeah, I got really sick the first few days and spent all my time in a hammock feeling sorry for myself). But then there would be other times were you could tell he just LOVED to laugh at people, in particular, the american (me). For instance one night when I was still sick Eugenia (the girl from Buenos Aires) brought home empanadas for dinner and as I was about to eat one Emelio shouted "NOT FOR YOU!" and then he laughed and said "ha! how do you feel now?" And there would be other times where you would ask him a question and only get a grumble in return. Virginia and I talked about him alot and wondered why he was this way. He DOES live alone and we both think there is a story under it all. We found out both of his parents had died....So I have to be sensitive to that. But he was pretty difficult to be around.
The countryside was beautiful though! I was constantly amazed by the flora and vast amount of insects and birds! During the day the birds whistled a pleasant tune to work to and at night the orchestra of insects was like something electric, experimental. I have never before heard sounds like those. There were firefly-like insects that cast a fluorescent green as they zipped around the farm at night! And the blanket of stars was breathtaking. I was also happily surrounded by 3 dogs, a cat, 2 kittens, and 3 horses. During the day, the clouds never ceased to amaze me. They were constantly changing, casting dramatic shadows across the sierras. Sometimes they would lightly dance with the wind throughout the day and other times they rolled heavy over the hills filled with rain to come. There were probably 3 or 4 lightening storms during the 2 weeks I was there. I felt inspired by the clouds. One hot night while I tossed and turned in my tent, thinking about where I was and how I felt, I wrote this little passage:
Here I am planted in Argentine soil
Now my roots can only grow deeper
While my body grows taller, wiser
Watered by experience and persons
I will grow
To produce sweet fruit to share
An apple, a peach, a lemon
I will bear fruits of many shapes, flavors, colors, textures
And one day when my outstretched branches cannot hold anymore
I will shake myself free
The wind will carry me up into the clouds
Where I can scatter my seeds
And, like a cloud
I will stay true to my complexion
While I allow the wind, seasons and light to paint me
(Soon I would like to rewrite it in spanish)
I know, a little cheesy, but it is good for me to read over in my weaker moments
Calor y....Tormenta?!?!
UNBEARABLE heat mid-day today and then....is that lightening? MASSIVE storm later this afternoon! The weather here is so strange. I have never lived somewhere so hot and muggy. The heat would not be so bad if it weren't for the sticky humidity. Usually the temperature ranges in the upper 30's sometimes 40's (thats in and around 100 F). And it starts early too. Actually it never really ends. I woke up at 7:30 this morning to go for a run, trying to beat the heat but its a race you can never win! I woke up with my shirt sticking to my sweaty back. Today I tried to find a cafe with wifi to work on some school work where there would be air conditioning. It was around noon and close to impossible to find a single place open (ciesta time) let alone with wifi. I had to settle for the shopping mall. I was well into my work and a refreshing smoothie when i heard a loud rumble. I could see trees frantically trying to keep root and lightening reflecting off the glass windows of buildings. Boy was I thankful to be indoors even if it was a commercial center with a Burger King, McDonalds and California Burrito....THANK YOU AMERICA AND YOUR GLOBALIZATION. On the bus ride home I saw numerous trees uprooted and smashed signs! crazy.
Friday, February 12, 2010
Arrival to the capital
So as it appears I am not very good at maintaining a blog! Well, I did not have frequent internet access on the farm so there's an excuse there. But I have been in the city of Cordoba for one week now and I am having a lot of fun. My family is great and I feel like I really lucked out with my living situation. The house is ALWAYS teeming with people whether friends or extended family. My "immediate" family consists of a mother (whom I've probably bonded the most with) father, 4 kids (Jero, Pia, Sole, Juan...aged 15 to 26). The abuelo also lives here and there are always cousins, aunts, nieces, you name it visiting. My first week their cousin Esteban was visiting and I went out with him and my two sisters Pia and Sole to los Boliches last weekend. A Boliche is basically a dance club that really gets going around 4 in the morning! We left the house around 1am and we got back at 6 am! I don't know how they do it! I guess that's why their ciesta lasts so long....from about 1 to 4pm in the afternoon the city sort of shuts down in a way and people relax and drink mate together. One thing i have really noticed the most here is the pace of life. No one is ever really on time and no one seems to care to much. Argentinians take their time and I feel like I can really learn from this. If you run into someone you know you chat with them. If I ask someone for help they will make sure I am set in the right direction. They also have a general curiosity about the goings of your life and always ask a lot of questions. I do not notice this as much in the United States. With my broken Spanish I try to return the conversation.
I have noticed my Spanish improving, but at a slow pace. I am very glad I began my adventure in the countryside, speaking Spanish a little at a time. I think this was a very good introduction to me as I have never lived in a big city before let alone one where I don't speak the language! But everyone is very patient and helpful and incredibly friendly.
I like my program and I've made friends with some cool people from the states, but I have to say I am ready to meet more Argentinians. The language barrier is difficult though. Often I feel like I have no personality because I cannot express myself the way I can in my native tongue. But I just have to keep learning and trying and putting myself out there.
I have noticed my Spanish improving, but at a slow pace. I am very glad I began my adventure in the countryside, speaking Spanish a little at a time. I think this was a very good introduction to me as I have never lived in a big city before let alone one where I don't speak the language! But everyone is very patient and helpful and incredibly friendly.
I like my program and I've made friends with some cool people from the states, but I have to say I am ready to meet more Argentinians. The language barrier is difficult though. Often I feel like I have no personality because I cannot express myself the way I can in my native tongue. But I just have to keep learning and trying and putting myself out there.
Well I have written a lot and I still have more to say but I'll save it for another post. I also want to describe my farm experience because that was quite an interesting one....
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